Owlery Knits Hand knitting reference
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Stitch · Shaping · Confident knitter

Short rows with wrap and turn: adding depth to a flat piece

Short rows let part of a row be knitted while the rest waits, so a flat piece can slope in three dimensions without any increase or decrease. Wrap and turn is the simplest method, and the wraps are what keep it invisible.

Chart legend
  • Vknit
  • -purl
  • ^decrease
∧ · w&t

At a glance

  • Symbol∧
  • Abbreviationw&t
  • TypeStitch
  • FamilyShaping
  • LevelConfident knitter
Short rows with wrap and turn: adding depth to a flat piece - w&t symbol swatch
Figure — the w&t motif matrix, 4 rows by 6 columns, drawn at the stated gauge.

Working chart

Working chart — Short rows with wrap and turn: adding depth to a flat piece
Step Round / row Stitches
Work to the turn point Yarn at the back if you are on a knit row. - 40
Slip the next stitch purlwise, bring the yarn forward, and slip it back This wraps the stitch, closing the gap later. 1 40
Turn the work and purl back The unworked stitches stay on the needle. 2 40
Repeat, moving the turn two stitches further each time Ten short rows give about 4.5 cm of extra depth in worsted. 3-20 40
Work back across the wraps, knitting each wrap with its stitch Skipping this leaves a visible hole at every turn. 21 40

Measurements

Measurements
Short row intervalExtra depth gainedGaps to hide
every 4 sts1.3 cm1 per turn
every 6 sts1.9 cm1 per turn
every 8 sts2.6 cm1 per turn
every 10 sts3.2 cm1 per turn

Yarn and yardage

Yarn and yardage
ApplicationRows savedTypical extra depth
Sock heel turn184.5 cm
Shoulder slope123.0 cm
Bust dart162.5 cm
Neckline raise102.0 cm

What a short row is

You knit part of a row, turn the work, purl back, turn again, and knit a little further than last time. The un-knitted stitches simply wait on the needle. When you finally work all the way across, the fabric has extra rows in the middle and none at the edges.

No stitches are added or removed, which is what makes short rows the right tool when you need depth rather than width - a sock heel, a shoulder slope, a bust dart, a raised back neck.

Wrapping the stitch

The gap at a turn happens because the last worked stitch and the first unworked stitch are pulled apart. Wrapping closes it: slip the next stitch purlwise, bring the yarn to the front between the needles, slip the stitch back to the left needle, then turn.

On the return pass, knit each wrap together with the stitch it belongs to. The wrap disappears into the fabric and the surface stays flat. Skipping the wrap - sometimes called a German short row - works too, but you must remember to lift the doubled stitch, or every turn becomes a hole.

Interval and depth

The interval between turns controls how steep the slope is. Turning every four stitches in worsted at 22 stitches per 10 cm adds about 1.3 cm of depth per turn; every eight stitches adds 2.6 cm - but the same number of turns over a wider interval means the slope is spread across more of the row.

For a sock heel turn, ten short rows over 20 stitches typically produce 4.5 cm of extra depth in a standard 4-ply sock, which is roughly the heel depth needed for a UK size 6.

Where it shows up

Sock heels are the classic use. Shoulder slopes in a seamed sweater use eight to twelve short rows to drop the outer edge of the shoulder by 3 cm, which is the difference between a shoulder that sits on the bone and one that rides up.

Bust darts in a fitted garment use ten to sixteen short rows placed at the side seam, facing downwards. A raised back neck in a top-down jumper uses short rows across the back only, typically over about 40% of the total stitch count.