Stitch · Texture · First project
One-by-one ribbing: the smallest stretch fabric in knitting
Alternating single knit and purl columns gives a fabric that pulls in by nearly a third and springs back, which is why every hat brim, cuff and sock top is some form of rib. This entry covers why it pulls in, how much, and the two counting mistakes that ruin it.
Published Abbreviation k1p1
- Vknit
- -purl
At a glance
- Symbol-
- Abbreviationk1p1
- TypeStitch
- FamilyTexture
- LevelFirst project
Working chart
| Step | Round / row | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Cast on 96 sts, join in the round Cast on an even number so the rib closes cleanly. | - | 96 |
| k1, p1 to the end of the round The last purl meets the first knit at the round marker. | 1 | 96 |
| Repeat rounds 1-2 Eighteen rounds of 1x1 rib at 28 rounds per 10 cm gives a 6.5 cm brim. | 2-18 | 96 |
| Measure relaxed, not stretched 96 sts at 26 sts / 10 cm relaxed gives a 37 cm circumference. | 18 | 96 |
| Switch to stocking stitch for the crown Rib pulls in; stocking stitch spreads, so the hat will widen about 20%. | 19 | 96 |
Measurements
| Needle (mm) | Sts / 10 cm relaxed | Pull-in vs flat |
|---|---|---|
| 3.25 | 30 | 32% |
| 4.00 | 26 | 30% |
| 4.50 | 23 | 28% |
| 5.50 | 18 | 26% |
Yarn and yardage
| Yarn weight | Metres for a 50 cm hat brim | Cast-on for a 56 cm head |
|---|---|---|
| Fingering (4-ply) | 18 m | 132 |
| DK | 22 m | 112 |
| Worsted | 26 m | 96 |
| Chunky | 34 m | 76 |
Why ribbing contracts
A purl column is shorter and narrower than a knit column at the same gauge. Put them side by side and the purl columns pull the knit columns towards each other, so the fabric settles at roughly 70% of its flat width.
The stored length is what makes it stretch. Flatten the fabric and the purl columns straighten out, giving back about 30% of extra width before the yarn itself has to stretch at all.
How much it pulls in
In DK on 4.0 mm needles, 1x1 rib relaxes to about 26 stitches per 10 cm against roughly 22 for stocking stitch - but the flat, stretched measurement is closer to 30. Patterns quote the relaxed figure because that is what the finished object measures.
Wider ribs pull in less. At the same gauge 2x2 rib relaxes to roughly 24 stitches per 10 cm, and 3x3 to about 23. The more knit stitches there are between purl columns, the less the columns can drag each other together.
Even counts and the join
For 1x1 rib worked in the round you need an even number of stitches, otherwise two knit columns meet at the join and the rib visibly breaks. For 2x2 you need a multiple of four.
When you join the round, make sure the first stitch on the needle is a knit and the last cast-on stitch a purl. If your cast-on leaves the wrong stitch at the join, work one extra stitch and move the marker - it is invisible and it saves ripping out a brim.
Ribbing at the edges
Cast on and bind off are both wider than rib, so the first and last rows of a brim flare slightly. Casting on with a needle two sizes smaller than the ribbing needle, or using a tubular cast-on, removes the flare entirely.
The same applies to the bind-off. A standard bind-off in rib has no stretch and will not pass over a sock heel; use a sewn or tubular bind-off if the rib has to open.